Monday, 12 March 2018

Simplicity 8511 and IAM Casiope

Sometimes you really don't enjoy the sew but like the dress and sometimes you enjoy the sew but don't like the dress .... here is one of each!

First Simplicity 8511, and just in case it isn't obvious this is the one I like, but it really was a nightmare to make. 

I cut my ususal size 14, though looking at the photos it could have been a little more fitted. 

I love, love  the sleeves, I removed 1/2" from the length (and they are still a bit too long) , but the main difficulty was that the cuffs were far too big by at least 3".  You can see below that I have had to overlap the cuffs which you aren't supposed to.

The main problem was due to bulk.  This crepe is quite heavy and doesn't press.  The neckband was particularly bad, although I love the look of it, you end up with 8 layers at the shoulder seams, and although the zip went in really well, it was awful at the top (and rooky mistake but I actually poked the corner though on one side and had to resort to a bit of glue!  The kick-pleat was bulky and difficult to hem (better to just have a slit), and the sleeves had lots of bulk in the seams.   The cuffs were cut in 2 parts and they could be made in one, so cutting down on bulk.  With all this it, did the pattern go in the bin?  No, cause actually I do like this dress and think it has a lot of potential with the right fabric (which unfortunately I haven't figured out yet), it needs to be lighter than this crepe, but still with some structure.  Ideas welcome!

So one to the one I enjoyed sewing, particularly as I love this babycord from Higgs and Higgs, but I will never wear.  This is the IAM Patterns Casiope, and there are some lovely versions.

I cut the size 42 (37" bust and I am 37.5"), however, even though I took 1" off each side seam and it is still enormous.  Room for two more in here!  Perhaps you need to be taller to pull it off!  Or maybe the fabric isn't drapey enough.  Likely a combination of all.    Anyway,  shame, but this one for the British Heart Foundation!  Anyone made this with more success!