Tuesday, 15 May 2018

Vogue 9077 ... #alittlelawnparty

I love this pattern.  I know it is not very springlike but I am really attracted to the dark coloured liberty lawns, perfect for a shirtdress and I do love this pattern.

It's Vogue 9077  a lovely shirtdress with lots of details.  I wouldn't say it was easy though as described on the packet.  Strangely the pattern has the darts on the rightside, which I don't like so I made them the traditional way on the inside.  It's a very fabric hungry pattern with a full skirt, great for switching.  In case you think this is extravagant, I got this liberty for £4.90 a metre from the end sale at Standfast and Barrat (they used to print it).  I love it and wish I'd bought some more.

I like the fit.  I cut a size 14 graded to a 12 at the waist, raised the waist by 1" and reduced the shoulder width by 5/8".  The main issue is the sleeves which are too wide (I think  you can see this) and also the cuffs which were way too wide for me.

The collar is unusual, its difficult to see here but  you have  has two pieces at the front.  The flaps are a nice detail, though you need to make sure they lie flat.  The flaps and the pieced collar mean you have multiple layers around here and this could be a problem with a thicker fabric (and they do suggest sateen).

I will make this again, perhaps with the fitted skirt.  It would look great in a plain colour to make the features stand out, and also to colour block.

This weeks Memade outfits ... 8 days

 You can just see Tess wanting to get in on the action .....


Monday, 7 May 2018

Safran jeans and Papercut Kyoto

Well what a weekend.  It's been fabulous in the UK for the May bank holiday, far too warm for jeans!  Even so I love these jeans.  They are the first skinny pair of jeans I've ever had and I love them. 

I thought they might not be comfortable, but they are!  I cut a size 38, though if I wanted a really snug pair I would need to cut a 36.  I had to take the back centre seam in by an extra 3/8" and reduce a the sides by an extra 2/8".  I love the mock welt pockets, though the pocket instructions didn't seem to work, you cant get the welt to work unless you clip the seam allowance at step 1.4.  I added 1" to the crotch length and took 5/8" off the length.

The fly went quite well, you just have be really careful to get the folds in the right place.  One thing which seems odd, the fly fastens the men's way.   I doesn't really bother me.  The waist band is pretty bulky, but my wonderful Pfaff managed to topstitch even with the 5 layers of denim.  The star of the jeans is the fabric.  It is a modal denim from Fabric Godmother, unfortunately now out of stock.  When it came I was a little disappointed as it seemed really stiff, however, it softened in the wash and as you work with it and now it is just fabulous.  Just right for jeans that need a lot of stretch.

This is my second Papercut Kyoto.  I think this is a lovely pattern.  The first one I made as a Small, but with this thinner jersey I made an extra small.  I'm not normally a "cute" fabric person, but I really couldn't resist this bear print from Sewmesunshine (sorry also now sold out).

This is a pretty straightforward pattern and I think the frill and drop shoulder add something special to a plain sweatshirt.

My wardrobe is currently around 98% memade, so #memademay is fairly easy for me, but I thought I would see if I could wear a different memade outfit every day of May.  Here is the first week.


Sunday, 29 April 2018

April BrudaStyle challenge (with a bit of help from Colette!)

So this is a bit of cheat, being a hack of a shirtdress from the April issue of Burdastyle and the Colette Hawthorn.  This is make number 4 and  probably my favourite  so far for Hila's Burdastyle challenge

So what happened was I was about to start to tracing from my April Burdstyle when I finally noticed that the pattern I had chosen was a "tall" sized one.  Being only 5'4" this wasn't going to work, then it also occurred to me that the bodice and collar were almost identical to the Colette Hawthorn.  So I used the Hawthorn bodice and sleeves, just including the tie from the Burda dress and adapting the skirt to have the high/low hem of the Burda dress.

I used the Hawthorn size 8 pattern which was a really good fit.  I did raise the waistline by
1".  Looking at the photos this may not have been necessary at the front, but the back needed a touch more .... mm bit of a conundrum there.  Is that because the front is rising due to my bust, and I needed a fba?

I like to try clothes on throughout the making process to keep checking the fit and decided that the back hem dipped just too low.  Believe it or not I took about 4" off the length at the back and reshaped the curve.

As you can see the skirt is very full (and coincidentally the Hawthorn and the Burda were almost identical in shape).  I wouldn't want to hand hem it and  I chose to topstitch in a chocolate brown thread.  Fitting the sleeves was a bit of a challenge.  Looking at some reviews the sleeves looked a bit puffy, so I took around 2/8" off the sleevehead height.  Having narrow shoulder I also needed to reduce the shoulder width by 3/8".  Despite all this the sleeveheads seemed large and they were hard to ease without gathers.

While I like the look of the Hawthorn collar, I think it is a difficult one to fit and you can see below it is standing up a bit.  I takes a lot of notching to get it even this flat!  I do like the centre part though.

I love the tie, it gives lots of waist definition, and it could be added to a lot of styles, I may well use this again.    Overall I do like this dress and though I probably won't make it again, it is comfy and from most angles quite flattering.  The fabric is a mocha heavy chambray, 100% cotton and a great price at only £4 a metre.  Sews well and has a bit of a linen looks about it.  As you can see from the photos though it does hold creases, sometimes when you don't want them!  It's from Fabworks and still available.

After a busy week, Dan came home and we had a lovely time at a Tom Paxton concert and then on Saturday in the garden (Rosy loved having him home too).

Friday, 13 April 2018

Vogue 8825 and McCalls 7465

So two for the price of one this week!  Vogue 8825 is a pullover wrap dress and I love it.  I cut a size 14 and raised the waist by 1".

It has a wrapped bodice and long ties which give the waist a lovely definition.  The sleeves are full bishop sleeves (made of two pieces) gathered into a cuff.   I cut 1" off the length of the sleeve and made the cuff a lot narrower by 1.5".    It's really important to get the sleeve tight at the cuff.  This did make the cuff very fiddly to sew, and am I the only one in the world this has happened to but I managed to get my finger stuck in the machine, panicked, turned the machine off, couldn't then get my finger out and ended up with a nasty cut!  Otherwise ,I enjoyed sewing it and particularly as Sian from Kittenish Behaviour had vlogged this as a sewalong.

I used stretch interfacing at the neckline, which makes it a nice snug fit and also in the cuffs.  I like the raglan sleeve and the gathers at the waist.  There are two darts in the back.

The fabric is a 4 way stretch jersey bought from the liberty man at Birmingham rag market.   It was only £6 a metre.  It is a liberty print, though I think not genuine liberty as it ran a bit in the wash, but it's still good enough.  There is a long story about how I ended up with enough for 2 dresses involving overlocking a bodice through the middle, it took about 4 metres for both.  So the second dress I made is McCalls 7465, a pullover dolman sleeved dress.

This is a pretty different dress.  It has a cowl neck.

You gather a very long side in the skirt and mount it on some powermesh and add elastic to the waist.  This does mean there is quite a bit of weight in the skirt, which may pull over time.

The sleeves are great, but you do have to keep adjusting them.   It's an interesting dress, but I wouldn't make this one again.


Sunday, 25 March 2018

March BurdaStyle challenge

The second completed challenge in March, this time for Hila's BurdaStyle challenge (#burdachallenge2018).   So this is my choice from the March 2018 magazine, a peplum blouse.  I do like a peplum, so this was a fairly easy choice for me.  Had trouble with the photos today due to the sun! (can't believe it!).  

I cut a size 40, raised the waist by 1"  and otherwise the fit (including the neck which is a really nice one) is pretty good.    I made a quick Colette Mabel skirt from ponte scraps to wear with it.  (Has anyone else noticed how similar the new Tilly and the Buttons Bibi skirt it?).  I have a bit confession to make, a started to trace the pattern, got fed-up and actually downloaded it.  It costs about another £5 and there is the sticking to do and the seams to add, but when you are tracing a quite complicated pattern with lots of pieces to find it just takes me hours!

I didn't make this as per the magazine at all.  There is supposed to be a full lining and a back separating zip.  Now if you live along a back separating zip doesn't seem like a good idea!  So I  skipped the lining, and used a satin bias binding for the back neck facing.  I decided to put buttons on the front edge instead of the zip, however, this has made the blouse feel a little bit prone to moving  straight around and I think I might be pulling it straight all the time, so I'm not sure about this one.

The fabric was in my stash bought from Barry's in Birmingham a year ago.  It's a very stretchy cotton and actually the stretch is another reason the blouse doesn't quite feel secure, pretty though.  You might just be able to make out the button edge below.  So overall, glad to have completed the challenge, but a bit bleh about this one.

Sunday, 18 March 2018

SewMyStyle The Kalle dress

I wasn't sure about the Kalle dress.  You may know I have a bit of a love/hate relationship with baggy dresses, mostly they drown me, so when the Kalle came out I gave it a wide birth, but I thought as it was this month's Sew My Style (#SewMyStyle2018)  I would give it a try, and I'm glad I did.

This is fabric from my stash.  I'm can't remember what it is something like a peachskin or cupro and I think it is perfect for the Kalle, which I think needs something drapey but with , weight.  I love it for this dress including the colour.  The only downside is that it doesn't press and thus wasn't easy to manage particularly with the placket.  By the way I did get a little confused by the instructions relating to the placket and I used the sewalong for additional help.  One thing I did find was how crucial it is to get real accuracy with your strips of interfacing and your folds.

One of the things I am going to need if I wear it with tights is a shorter slip!  It's peeking in the photo above.  I cut the size 10, a 36.5" bust sizing (I'm 37.5" bust).  I then graded down at the waist/hips by 1/4" at each seam, so a total of 1" .  I think the ease is pretty generous.

I used the box pleat because I think it hangs better.  The only real change I made was to reduce the difference between the front and back hem lengths and also to reduce the side split, I didn't want to flash too much thigh.  I also didn't notice that the hem facing was for the cropped shirt and so having drafted and cut one, I thought I would use it any way.    I'm it w not sure yet whether I will wear loose  or chicken out and add a belt.    Either way I like it, glad to have had a go and I've already bought some cupro for the next one.